In the thicket of eateries stretched across the city and suburbs to pick up tourists looking for fixed-price menus and students dissatisfied with their masses, the most underground is in Marina di Pisa, out of the tourist's eye, ignored by those without a few drops of Pisanity in their blood. On the corner of Via Curzolari. behind the old Gallinari (later Cimasa, then Fiat, now Stotofides), with no big-name signage, with a small doorway to the place that looks more like that of a private home than a public establishment, Gino works. Impossible to run into a tour group, people speaking exotic languages; at Gino's, (born Gino Conti, 62 years old) only “Pisano” is spoken, the clientele is often in overalls, the silver flatware is an aspiration that will never be achieved, the ambience is more than familiar. And even the menu is as familiar as you can think of; in the kitchen, Gino in fact packs what passes the convent, namely the sea.
II menu, here escapes all traditional rules, since fish that for years, unfortunately, no one cooks anymore is cooked there. To start with, the fish soup of which most have lost even the memory, unless they have a patient mother-in-law in the family, who beats the market, hoards branded fish, and then packs it all for you with such punctiliousness that it seems like spite;
at “Gino's,” on the other hand, fish soup is the order of the day, and, if anything, it only takes a phone call to find it on the table on the day you want it. For the second course, don't mind what the menus to which restaurants all over Italy have accustomed us recommend; here a nice agerto alla pozzolana is a must (note: agerto is a fish that cannot be sold at the market even with the severe economic situation, because it is fat and heavy but here it is ennobled to a delicacy; the fried fish is boat (authentic, not fried wheels of wrapped squid, as now a large part of the tourists who tour Italy believe is the fish of the Mediterranean), better if aggiughe or sarde.